The following pictures are a bit out dated. However, for the sake of explaining of what is involved with removing hair on a hairy hairless, I’ve left my old pictures of Super Model Danzee. Danzee has now passed away.
There is always a risk for your hairless dog to react to any type of hair remover involved. Would your dog react, I will not in any ways, or be held responsible. If you wish to use this method you are the sole responsible person for any type of reactions/injuries your dog may have following this procedure. The pictures are references on how “I” do it. There are now many videos on Youtube you can watch. Simply type the keyword “Chinese Crested Grooming”
**Clippers, Medical Gloves, Bath Gloves, Hair Remover, Cling Wrap, Elastic Bands, Small Scissors, Razor, Shaving Gel, Shampoo, Conditioner.**
In this first picture, for educational purpose, Danzee was left unshaved and this is a 7 months growth! Pretty impressive huh? I bet some of you still have your mouth open and just said “wow”! I was asked to participate on a few Judges' seminars as a few years back, and sometimes to this day, many people (including) judges, didn’t know what a Hairy Chinese Cresteds really looked like before entering the ring. The goal of these pictures is to make potential buyers aware of what is involved in order to have this “flashy look” and as I mentioned above Judges’ education. This is also the reason why I am still using Danzee's pictures, as I never let the body hair grow for such a long period of time.
Danzee is typically your average as far as body hair goes for a Hairy Chinese Crested sporting such furnishings (Crest, Socks, and Plume). Some Chinese Crested Dogs come with a very decent furnishing with minimal body hair. The degree of thickness may also vary from thinner to thicker. Unfortunately they remain in the minority. Unless there is a good reason to let the hair grow, most breeders will keep the Hairy Chinese Cresteds shaved most of the time. I am sure for most part; some breeders don’t even know just how hairy their dogs are because of the frequent routine grooming.
I chose many years ago, to openly be honest regarding this subject. For those of you who wish to acquire a Chinese Crested, it may be wise to buy a True Hairless or Medium Hairy Chinese Crested. “Flashiness” is not everything, most Chinese Cresteds Dogs have the same disposition whether they are a True Hairless or a Hairy Hairless or a Powderpuff as a matter of fact. After the first day with your new Crested you will love him/her so much anyway that it will quickly become unimportant on how flashy your dog is. They are such a joy to own! True Hairless in general will not accomplish the same winnings at the show. On a side note: Hairy Hairless when getting older will thin out quite a bit with hair. Many judges now a day will pick less obvious Hairy dogs, you need to research your judges. If you still decide that the “Hairy Hairless Look’ is what you prefer, than I suggest to quickly familiarize yourself with frequent grooming. You will now be more informed, and the choice is yours based on what YOU can and are willing to deal with.
Danzee is being shaved here with a #40 blade. This is not the closest shave blade you can get but it works well for the hair remover to "latch" on something.
Advice: Don't try this procedure the day before the show. Once your dog is old enough to know how to behave well in the tub try it. The first time try a little spot as opposed to the whole body! And remember the amount of time the hair remover works on one dog will likely be different on the next. Since the hair remover cannot be reapplied for so many hours, my advice would be to try it way ahead of show days. If you find out it works for you, try it again a couple of days after so the spot where you did your testing won't get irritated. Never ever apply the hair remover on a wound such as a scratch or in the case of a young dog, on an open pimple.
The wrapping procedure has changed since I took these pictures! I no longer use baggies. Use "Cling Wrap". Make sure you fold one end so it's not sticky. Start wrapping let's say the paw with the sticky end and finish with the folded end. This way when time comes to remove it, you won't be searching to unwrap. I wrap the whole sock part (and a tad more to make sure I'm not taking too much and will later finish shaving it by hand).I make sure the pads are also covered. I do the same with the tail. I gather as much hair from the crest and secure it up with a few elastic bands (keep small scissors handy to cut them off later as opposed to pulling them off). Lastly I will apply a piece of cling wrap against the base of the crest and wrap it around the neck a bit.
For Hair Removing products, I use either the Avon Body Hair Remover or the Veet for Sensitive Skin. I love the new pump model. To apply the hair remover, I use medical type gloves. You can buy a box in just about any pharmacies. When you are ready to start, assess where the most or thickness spot needs to be removed. Start with this part of the body. Remember that once started, you will have to move quickly! Since you covered the furnishings, don't be afraid to be a bit sloppy and don't waiste your time trying to be perfect. Keep in mind that the hair remover start working as soon as you apply it. As long as you apply it fairly even in thickness you will be ok. Sometimes the hair remover texture gets a bit on the dry side, especially if some spots have a thinner coat. Just dip your fingers in water an gently make the remover moist again. As a rule I wait about five (5) minutes and dip my finger in water and again gently do a check spot in a circling motion. If the hair is not falling off, just cover the spot again with some remover. Don't wait too much longer and check again. When the hair is falling off, be ready to act quickly to start rinsing. Don't bother taking the wrapper right away; just concentrate on rinsing your dog's skin so you don't leave the cream longer than it needs to. I find having the water ready works best.
Once the body is completely free of hair remover, I take my gloves off, remove the wrappers, and put on my bath gloves, poor some shampoo on my gloves and VERY LIGHTLY, and VERY GENTLY rub the body with it. You will find that after you do this, the skin is nice and soft. Take your gloves off, and shampoo the furnishings as you would normally do.
Once you get experienced enough with this procedure, and your dog has been trained not to move, you can shave the face while you are waiting for the remover to do its magic. I have a small container with warm water waiting, I use shaving gel and a hand razor. My favourite is the Aveno Shaving Gel, but unfortunately I haven't been able to find it lately. I will have to find out what's going on with this. Make sure your medical gloves are absolutely free of hair remover. Better yet just use a new pair. You can do the face the night before if you wish. At this point, this is also when I finish shaving the legs where I left some extra wrap. Your shaving line will look nicer this way. You need to study your dog's body type as well. If your dog is leggy, you may want to leave the sock hair a little higher. The same principle applies if your dog's legs are shorter; shave the socks a little lower in order to make the leg appear to be longer.
If you choose to shave the ears, (and both shaved and fringed ears are pretty) and you haven't shave them for a bit, you should clip them (with a close blade clipper like the Ermila Bella). This way if your dog finds it a little itchy, he/she will have a couple of days to get accustomed to it, and will not be distracted in the ring by wanting to scratch its ears.
Attention: After using the hair remover, your dog's skin may show small swelled bumps. This is most likely caused by the remover staying on the skin too long. Apply a cool face cloth to soothe the skin.
Just before drying your dog, apply a scent free body lotion such as Avon Moisture Therapy, or Aveno Moisturizing Lotion. Dry the hair with your favourite brush and I do believe your dog should look like a million!